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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 4:27 pm 
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After assembling the K8200 kit, I followed the instructions for using Repetier and Slic3r to attempt to print the following item from thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14222

I used the slic3r configuration files that were supplied by Velleman's online documentation.

Here's the result:

Image

Each time I try generating the GCode and printing, no matter which object, the result is the same. The subsequent layers appear to be offset and not properly aligned.

Any help is greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 5:02 pm 
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It looks that not even one layer is aligned. Your axis are obviously loosing steps from the very beginning.

Try to raise the drivers (pololu) voltages to 0.5 volts. It might help.


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 Post subject: Re: X Motor doesnt work
PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 5:49 pm 
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jacobshepherd wrote:
Each time I try generating the GCode and printing, no matter which object, the result is the same. The subsequent layers appear to be offset and not properly aligned.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

There are many topics about this on this forum from others, if you use the search function you will find a lot of information.

Bert


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 6:46 pm 
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Thanks guys, I attempted to do a quick search before I posted, but didn't seem to find the same thing. If you know of terms that I could use to bring up the results, or know of a specific post that you think would help, please let me know. I'll be trying the previously supplied suggestion as well.

I appreciate your help!


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 10, 2014 6:55 pm 
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raby, could you point me in the right direction on how to update the driver to .5 volts?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 11, 2014 7:16 am 
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the right direction to increase the driver is in the clockwise (left to right)
but you must control the voltage with the multimeter


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:05 am 
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1. Recheck the calibration for the motor drivers. Read pages 535-539 of the assembly manual. Pay specific attention to the troubleshooting steps on 539.

2. Make sure your belts are tight and the motors are not skipping teeth.

3. There may be an issue of too much friction in the x or y directions. The bed should have been very easy to move in all directions before attaching the belts. It still should be fairly easy to move after the belts are attached with the motors turned off.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 12, 2014 6:24 am 
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Thanks guys! I'm going to try these suggestions shortly and get back with you. I'm looking forward to getting a successful print!


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 9:59 am 
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Hi, the same thing is happening with my K8200. Did you fix the issue, can you post some feedback?


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 1:56 pm 
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Did you set the reference voltage to 0.55?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 11:19 am 
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Location: MONA TILES COMPOUND, NR. CHHANI CIRCLE, CHHANI ROAD, VADODARA - 390002. GUJARAT, INDIA.
The single most important part of a print is first layer adhesion. If your first layer doesn't stick. Stop, and start again.

What material are you printing? PLA I assume (with no heated bed)?

PLA will stick to blue painters tape (it's the waxed layer that it sticks to so apply new tape regularly and don't wipe it down with anything before printing).

If you are really struggling with adhesion to painters tape, try PVA glue instead (google the specifics, I won't go into them here)

Bed levelling is a hassle (especially if you have a warped bed, as it sounds like you do) invest in a borosilicate glass plate to alleviate this (again google is your friend) eBay is good for cheap plates. Correct bed levelling is again critical to having any chance of success. It's a hassle, but take your time as once it's done, you shouldn't have to touch it again.

Print the first layer SLOW! I print my first layers at 15mm/s (10mm/s for PETG or other copolymers). This really helps with adhesion.

Try bumping the temp of the extruder (5deg or so) for the first layer. This can also really help.

Get to know your slicer settings (not sure what software you're using) I've settled with a repetier host/cura combo. Works for me, but it's really a personal preference thing.

Also. Head over to the Velleman forum and start reading the posts there. That is where I gleaned much of my early knowledge when I first started out. There will be info specific to your printer, and the community is polite, and very positive and constructive.

Good luck. Please don't let the frustration get to you. You'll be surprised how quickly your prints will improve as you get to know your printer better. Don't expect perfect results over night. But at the same time, your K8400 is a perfectly capable printer, capable of excellent results. A couple of simple mechanical and software tweaks, and you'll be printing like a pro in no time. most useful 3d printed objects gallery

My K8200 is archaic by modern printer standards. But my prints are universally praised when I present them to fellow 3d printing enthusiasts. To the point that many do not believe that they were printed on a K8200. While I have modified many parts of my printer and upgraded others. The key to the quality I achieve is simply settings (software/slicer settings)

Find some simple test pieces, simple calibration cubes, the Marvin key ring, 3dBenchy ect (google thingiverse).

Hope this helps a little.


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