I recently finished the upgrade for my bed heating. Perhaps you have read about it some posts earlier in this thread:http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=9598&start=180#p50306
Meanwhile I did some successful prints with ABS. At started with 90C printing on Kapton tape on glass, but often had problems with warping and my transformer got very hot.
The I treated the Kapton with some ABS/Acetone-Slurry, since then I did several prints without treating the tape again. Bed temperature could be lowered to 83C (perhaps lower is possible, did not try yet).
BTW for the first print I used a glass plate with hairspray, as you suggested for PLA prints. But the ABS sticked so much on this that I had to break the object to get it off.
What really? ABS + hairspray sticks better then kapton? Nice, did not see that coming :p
I prepared a ikea mirror (the backside of it, and I sanded it) with acetone/ABS slurry. I did not tested it yet. What I did test was printing straight on kapton (sticked to ikea mirror) at 95 degrees. And with a brim, no problems. But I want to be able to print without those brims. To make ABS stick to the printbed it's not that big of a problem then I suspected before I started experimenting with ABS. I do have some other issues like I posted in other topics: I had a jam-up when I was printing for over an hour, the finned/cooled barrel of my E3D v5 hotend became very hot and caused ABS to stick to it inside. I don't know yet what I will do about that, probably a bigger fan or so. And the second problem (see ABS printing/config topic) is when printing small things, the layers tend to curl upwards. I think it is caused by the barrel cooling fan but I'm not sure :-)
Oh and btw, my power supply gets warm, but not hot.. But it really is a very big supply (in volume) almost twice as big as the original supply. Maybe that way it can get rid of the heat easier :-)